The amount of money saved by burning your fuel more efficiently using the on- demand hydrogen-oxygen our kits inject, is determined by a couple of factors:
1) How big is your engine? Let's say you are getting 15 miles per gallon now, You could get 23 mpg with our kit (a 53% increase). I did that with my Chevy Trailblazer. Instead of filling up every 4 days, you could go 6 or 7 days on the same tank. Instead of filling up 7 times a month, now you fill up just 4 times, for example. You could save 3 tanks of gas every month! Smaller engines would do even better.
3 Tanks of gas = 3 x 15 gallons x $5.00 per gallon = $225 SAVED every month.
2) How much do you drive? If you only take the car out on Sunday, and never go anywhere, you should not buy the kit unless you are really concerned about the emissions (see this chart for actual reductions).
If you drive every day to work and back, and use it every day, obviously you are going to have much higher savings!
3) How well do you maintain your car? A tuned up car with clean oil and air filters will always give best results. If your car is belching oil, we can still help clean up the exhaust, but your results may not be as high as a well maintained car.
4) How good of an installation did you do? We give a very detailed installation manual that lays everything out clearly on how to install, set up and run your HHO kit for maximum results. Clean distilled water is a must, and your amps should be at recommended setting. If your car has fuel injection, you must use our gas or diesel tuners and adjust as we instruct for best results.
Once you experience the increased response of your car, the instant acceleration on passing or on the hwy, the clean and quiet running engine, you will never want to turn it off again, and you be smiling every time you pass up the gas station with it's long lines and outrageous prices!
That's a good question. Normal HHO systems get pretty hot because of the amount of amperage they use trying to produce enough HHO gas to affect their mileage. Most older systems are similar. Once they get hot, some of the product produced is HHO gas, but some is actually steam. Because of that- the water is used up quickly and needs to be refilled every few days.
Part of the reason this happens is that every system out there (except ours), has exposed edges in every plate. If they are a dry cell with compressed neoprene gaskets, they still have holes in every plate to allow the water to pass from one cell to the next. every hole is an exposed edge. We have found that it is the edges of the cut stainless that leach into the water and turn it brown quickly. Or if your system gets over a certain temperature, which then changes the electrolyte chemically and stops production of HHO gas.
But when we engineered our new 800 series from the ground up, we designed it to have no exposed edges internally. There are no holes in the inner plates. Everything is covered, either by plastic retainers or molded plastic. It is what makes our hho generators unique and more advanced than anything available.
We didn't know how well our system would work. We knew what we wanted to achieve, but no one has ever done this at the level we were trying, so it was a crapshoot. Boy were we surprised when we started firing them up in our own test vehicles! First of all, the water stays clean! It doesn't get thick, brown, or murky. Second of all, we found that because of the efficiency, it barely used water at all compared to the old style!
Sometimes just a half liter of water a week is all that is needed! It's crazy to think you can save $50 or more on a tank of gas, using just $1.00 or less of water!!!
I'll be installing in my Toyota Tundra soon and giving some updated videos and mileage results, so stay tuned!
In the early days of HHO kits and people developing and experimenting with on- demand hydrogen and do-it-yourself hho kits, we did actually have a couple of the big manufacturers express interest (Ford and GM). Ford was in the background watching the developments, GM was interested enough to have one of their plant managers contact me to fly me to their plant and teach them about hho technology. The problem was that it was the GM plant in CHINA. They manufacture the big American cars there and wanted to talk about the possibility of working with them.
Since China has a horrible reputation of stealing new tech (literally within weeks), I told them I wasn't interested.
I think Ford watched everything going on and decided to wait until the tech matured more. Remember, when this trend started back in 2007, there were no advancements- it was virgin ground. It was nothing but garage mechanics and inventors building handmade HHO kits with available parts from Ace Hardware and Home Depot. There were no "experts". Just spotty results and "experts" telling all the blogs that it was fake science and didn't work and that anyone involved was just a scammer.
Even Popular Mechanics jumped on the scam alert bandwagon using their Auto column editor to push the false narrative that HHO gas doesn't improve mileage.
Of course Google search moved this to the top of the search results...
I actually contacted the editor and challenged his test. He used probably the worst handmade HHO kit with close to zero hho gas production to test on his Ford Mustang. No electronic chip to tell the fuel management system to lean out fuel.
SO he got bad results and concluded from that bad test, that he, as the "reigning expert", had determined it was fake. So I challenged him to a test. We were in our third generation HHO generators by then and were getting above average results. I said I was willing to bring our largest system (773), fly out at no charge, install it on his Ford Mustang, at no charge, and give him positive results, all at NO RISK to him. The ONLY requirement I had, was that if I DID get him positive results, he would recant his prior judgement and write a favorable article.
How did he respond? He BLOCKED me from the Popular Mechanics Blog and deleted all my posts and challenges from public blog. And his fake critical assessment became one of the most read and quoted in the anti- HHO gas battle.
More on this in a future post....
One of our readers, John, suggested I write more on the Pro Series tuners and where to start when using them. That was the plan already- thanks John! In fact, we will be putting new series of videos together covering the installation of our hho kits, the setup, tweaking, and troubleshooting as well as installation of the efies! I will send out emails to our private list and subscribers as those are uploaded- so make sure and subscribe!
The Pro Series Tuners
Along with our advanced EFIE/MAF tuners which essentially cover the MAF or MAP sensors and anywhere from 1-4 O2 sensors (see more about those on previous articles linked below), we also offer a more advanced tuner called the Pro Series (gasoline only). If you havent read the previous articles- please catch up with part 1 and 2 on links below:
PART 1: http://www.hhokitsdirect.com/blogs/news/36121921-what-is-an-efie-and-do-i-need-one-with-my-hho-kit
PART 2: http://www.hhokitsdirect.com/blogs/news/37332289-what-is-an-efie-and-do-i-need-one-with-my-hho-kit-part-2
The Pro Series is more advanced and is designed for the newer vehicles with more sensors and more computer controls. The old OBD1 systems (pre-1996 cars) was very simple and had 1 maybe 2, O2 sensors, and/ or a MAF. As cars progressed, the fuel maps and computer controls did too. By 2005-2006, mfgs started using additional sensors, and by 2010 -2012, it seems most started using the additional sensors.
I am referring to the addition of both the IAT (Intake Air Temp) and the CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor). The first one is usually tied in in the same wiring harness as the MAF and measures the air temp coming into engine.The second one measures the temperature of the coolant. Both in more modern engines are used to determine fuel maps, and ultimately how much fuel to deliver to the engine.
HOW DOES THE PRO SERIES HELP?
If the engine computer determines the air (using the IAT) is say 120 degrees F, it is programmed to LEAN out the fuel. If it is 35 degrees F, it is going to richen up, or add more fuel. When we adjust the pot on the Pro Series, we are telling the ECM that the outside air is Hotter than it actually is- so the ecm chooses the leaner fuel map. Now, mind you, the engine is not harmed in anyway. The computer just thinks it is hotter outside, then it really it is, so its time to cut back the fuel. We NEVER do this without adding in an alternative fuel, such as our HHO kit, or you run the risk of burning valves, but WITH the addition of HHO gas, the engine cuts back fuel, you add it back in with HHO, and the result is less gasoline burned, while maintaining power and gaining mileage (since you are extracting the fuel from water to compensate).
Same goes with the CTS. If the ECM thinks the engine coolant is say, 5-7 degrees hotter than it should be, it signals a leaner fuel map to lean out the gas and cool the engine back down. Remember, we are NOT actually making the engine hotter, we are making the computer "think" the engine is hotter to lean out fuel.
It really is the same thing with the O2 sensors and MAF. We lower the millivot signal of the O2 sensor so the engine thinks it is running too rich, and the computer chooses a leaner map.
Remember, never use these type of product without injecting hho or you could damage your engine. But when used with a quality HHO kit like we manufacture (shameless plug), they can give you more power, more mileage and lower your emissions for a long time.
We talked about how injectors are controlled by the cars computer (ECM) to determine how long they stay open or closed, and how fast they open or close. The ECM decides those parameters using a programmed set of "fuel maps", that utilize the information from the cars sensors to determine if the engine needs more gas or less gas.
Computers can only do what they are programmed for. They can't tell if you are going up a hill or towing a trailer, or anything else, without reading the information from the sensors first. The two key sensors are the O2 sensors in the exhaust to monitor oxygen levels, and the MAF or MAP sensors that monitor the flow of incoming air and the manifold vacuum.
The sensors transmit the data to the cars ECM using very tiny millivolt signals. An O2 sensor may be in the 400 millivolt range for example. When you install one of our EFIE's, you use a volt meter to adjust that millivolt rating down to say 300 millivolts. By doing this, you are telling the car computer to "Lean Out" the fuel, which allows the HHO generator to supply the additional energy, and still save fuel (If you do this without adding an alternative fuel, you will notice a lack of power, and could even burn your valves, so ONLY do this when injecting a new fuel like HHO gas). AN efie gas tuner allows you to slowly tweak and test to get the optimum performance from your hho generator.
The MAF sensor works on the same premise, but measures the mass air flow going into the engine to determine the work the engine is doing (engine load). When you use our EFIE or Diesel Chip, you adjust them to reduce the engine load setting. In other words, you are telling the car computer that it has a 20% lighter engine load than it actually is (for example). The computer then reduces fuel because of that.
It is not as complicated as it may seem at first. You simply locate the one signal wire on a sensor and connect it to our EFIE or Diesel Chip, then adjust it with a screwdriver. After that, you never mess with it again. (we show you how to locate the wire, install it and adjust it in our free manual).
By changing the signals ever so slightly, you are teaching the car computer how to reduce the gas or diesel usage, when supplemented by pure hydrogen and oxygen gas. That is the Long term way to make your hho kit function as both an emission reducer and fuel saver, without loss of power or performance.
Stay tuned for Part 3 where we get into the Pro series level chips and how they differ from our advanced series.
If you have any questions- feel free to email us!
Until next time,
This question is one of the most argued points when it comes to HHO generator kits on vehicles, so I thought it would be a good idea to go ahead and address the issue.
An EFIE stands for Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer, and it was really invented back many years ago by a man named George Wiseman, who then shared it with the world to use as necessary to help cars with fuel injection work well with HHO boosters. The file was quickly shared all over the internet and became the standard for most EFIE's still in use today, though they have been vastly improved, and operate smarter (like in our advanced EFIE designs).
The tuner circuits were invented as a response to the advancement in car computer enhancement, and the advent of throttle body Injection (TBI), and Fuel Injection Rails to inject metered amounts of fuel into a cars engine. They solved a huge amount of problems that commonly occurred with carburetors, such as hard starting, vapor lock, stalling, rough idle, etc.
The fuel injector contains a small valve that opens and closes rapidly to allow a fast, fine mist of gasoline or diesel to be injected into the combustion chamber of the engine at the perfect time, in the perfect amount, based on the circumstances of the car engine (ie: the car may be idling, accelerating, decelerating, going uphill, towing a trailer, etc), and each circumstance requires a different response from the injectors to vary the fuel properly. The programming used to determine these conditions is put together in a series of "Fuel Maps", that have pre-designated timing sequences for the injectors.
The injectors are actually an incredible invention. Think of them as a miniature high pressure spray gun, that not only opens and closes in micro seconds, but with the computer programming, they are told to pulse faster or slower, and stay open faster or slower depending.
So what determines their pulse rate and timing? The computer programming. But how does the computer know what to tell the injectors? Only ONE way...through the engine sensors. The computer has No Other Way of knowing the condition of the engine. Without the sensors, it would be like a blind man trying to run a race in a country he had never been, having no idea what is around the next corner.
THAT is where the EFIE comes into play!
Stay tuned for Part Two where I will get into the sensors of the engine that control, and how the EFIE affects them, and why they are necessary for long term gains when using an HHO kit