I recently had someone email me that had purchased our 8 day course (we sell as an illustrated booklet for those that are in a hurry to make a decision).
He asked this question: "How does your system "tune"? I plan on purchasing your kit with tuner, but don't understand what I am tuning."
That's a great question. I figured others might have the same one, so this is how I answered it:
The “tuners” we provide, don't directly affect the flow of fuel, we rely on the massive work of the engineers who programmed the engines with specific fuel maps, based on the engines needs, to do that.
All engines with computers (ECM's) use sensors to gather data and send that to the ECM. The ECM then chooses the proper fuel map, based on that information, which is constantly changing. Most "TUNERS" try to inject their own programs to help the engine get more horsepower or economy, but many times the ECM will override their attempts (especially when it comes to gas savings!)
So our tuners bypass the programming entirely, and "hijack" the signal before it gets to the ECM. We actually route the signals coming from the O2 sensors and MAF/MAP sensors, before they reach the car computer (ECM). While it seems “that is not enough”, the sensors are quite sensitive to changes internally in the engine, and just a few millivolts of change affects WHICH fuel map the ECM decides to use, which determines how much fuel to inject. In other words, we are not trying to work against the engineering software of the car, we are simply changing the inputs that determine how much fuel is used. We can adjust the MAF (in most cars) to actually cause the engine to stumble because the fuel is leaned out by the ECM, based on those signals. So while we are only adjusting or tuning the signals by using a voltmeter, we are leveraging the car computer to do the rest of the work.
Does that make sense? Obviously, it is much more complex than that, but essentially, computers are only as smart as the data that is input into them. We make sure they get the right data to lean out the fuel in an unconventional way.
Hope that helps...
Make sure you check out our cutting edge new H2XTRME HHO generators, and check out more info on the tuners as well!
Our HHO kits are designed so anyone can install them. You do not have to be a mechanic or electrician either. Our fully illustrated manuals clearly explain the process for everyone and we offer free tech support if you need help.
The HHO kit hardware is straightforward for every car or truck: Install the 3 components (Generator, Reservoir, and filter); connect them with provided hoses and clamps, and connect the wiring (also included). At that point you are ready to fill up and run your kit.
However, If your car has fuel injection (most cars newer than 1999), you need to install a gas or diesel tuner so that the car computer knows to lean out the fuel when HHO gas is being injected. The gas tuner connects to the signal wire of the O2 sensors and MAF. We show you how to easily locate these wires in less than 5 minutes. You simply connect the wires to the tuner and use a voltage meter to adjust the tuner to suggested settings, then take it out to test.
Sometimes a little tweaking is recommended to find optimal settings for your car – which is best found by driving around. The best settings are when your car actually has better acceleration and pick up (no loss of power), and idles quietly and smoothly, and still gets amazing results.
After that, just check your water from time to time, and top off when necessary. You start saving IMMEDIATELY, from day one. Drive it around, test it out, fill up and see the results for yourself. Then just make a tiny adjustment on the tuner and see if it makes it even better. You will soon find the perfect adjustment. This can take a day or so, but once you find the best setting, you’re done and don’t have to touch it again. And if you need to turn off the HHO system for any reason- it automatically reverts to the OEM settings.
One of our readers, John, suggested I write more on the Pro Series tuners and where to start when using them. That was the plan already- thanks John! In fact, we will be putting new series of videos together covering the installation of our hho kits, the setup, tweaking, and troubleshooting as well as installation of the efies! I will send out emails to our private list and subscribers as those are uploaded- so make sure and subscribe!
The Pro Series Tuners
Along with our advanced EFIE/MAF tuners which essentially cover the MAF or MAP sensors and anywhere from 1-4 O2 sensors (see more about those on previous articles linked below), we also offer a more advanced tuner called the Pro Series (gasoline only). If you havent read the previous articles- please catch up with part 1 and 2 on links below:
PART 1: http://www.hhokitsdirect.com/blogs/news/36121921-what-is-an-efie-and-do-i-need-one-with-my-hho-kit
PART 2: http://www.hhokitsdirect.com/blogs/news/37332289-what-is-an-efie-and-do-i-need-one-with-my-hho-kit-part-2
The Pro Series is more advanced and is designed for the newer vehicles with more sensors and more computer controls. The old OBD1 systems (pre-1996 cars) was very simple and had 1 maybe 2, O2 sensors, and/ or a MAF. As cars progressed, the fuel maps and computer controls did too. By 2005-2006, mfgs started using additional sensors, and by 2010 -2012, it seems most started using the additional sensors.
I am referring to the addition of both the IAT (Intake Air Temp) and the CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor). The first one is usually tied in in the same wiring harness as the MAF and measures the air temp coming into engine.The second one measures the temperature of the coolant. Both in more modern engines are used to determine fuel maps, and ultimately how much fuel to deliver to the engine.
HOW DOES THE PRO SERIES HELP?
If the engine computer determines the air (using the IAT) is say 120 degrees F, it is programmed to LEAN out the fuel. If it is 35 degrees F, it is going to richen up, or add more fuel. When we adjust the pot on the Pro Series, we are telling the ECM that the outside air is Hotter than it actually is- so the ecm chooses the leaner fuel map. Now, mind you, the engine is not harmed in anyway. The computer just thinks it is hotter outside, then it really it is, so its time to cut back the fuel. We NEVER do this without adding in an alternative fuel, such as our HHO kit, or you run the risk of burning valves, but WITH the addition of HHO gas, the engine cuts back fuel, you add it back in with HHO, and the result is less gasoline burned, while maintaining power and gaining mileage (since you are extracting the fuel from water to compensate).
Same goes with the CTS. If the ECM thinks the engine coolant is say, 5-7 degrees hotter than it should be, it signals a leaner fuel map to lean out the gas and cool the engine back down. Remember, we are NOT actually making the engine hotter, we are making the computer "think" the engine is hotter to lean out fuel.
It really is the same thing with the O2 sensors and MAF. We lower the millivot signal of the O2 sensor so the engine thinks it is running too rich, and the computer chooses a leaner map.
Remember, never use these type of product without injecting hho or you could damage your engine. But when used with a quality HHO kit like we manufacture (shameless plug), they can give you more power, more mileage and lower your emissions for a long time.