Our offices are closed this weekend as our staff spends the weekend celebrating America's Independence Day with their friends and family! We will do our traditional LOUD explosions using one of our hho kits and some plastic bottles...LOL
We wish you all a great day and have a safe weekend!
This question is one of the most argued points when it comes to HHO generator kits on vehicles, so I thought it would be a good idea to go ahead and address the issue.
An EFIE stands for Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer, and it was really invented back many years ago by a man named George Wiseman, who then shared it with the world to use as necessary to help cars with fuel injection work well with HHO boosters. The file was quickly shared all over the internet and became the standard for most EFIE's still in use today, though they have been vastly improved, and operate smarter (like in our advanced EFIE designs).
The tuner circuits were invented as a response to the advancement in car computer enhancement, and the advent of throttle body Injection (TBI), and Fuel Injection Rails to inject metered amounts of fuel into a cars engine. They solved a huge amount of problems that commonly occurred with carburetors, such as hard starting, vapor lock, stalling, rough idle, etc.
The fuel injector contains a small valve that opens and closes rapidly to allow a fast, fine mist of gasoline or diesel to be injected into the combustion chamber of the engine at the perfect time, in the perfect amount, based on the circumstances of the car engine (ie: the car may be idling, accelerating, decelerating, going uphill, towing a trailer, etc), and each circumstance requires a different response from the injectors to vary the fuel properly. The programming used to determine these conditions is put together in a series of "Fuel Maps", that have pre-designated timing sequences for the injectors.
The injectors are actually an incredible invention. Think of them as a miniature high pressure spray gun, that not only opens and closes in micro seconds, but with the computer programming, they are told to pulse faster or slower, and stay open faster or slower depending.
So what determines their pulse rate and timing? The computer programming. But how does the computer know what to tell the injectors? Only ONE way...through the engine sensors. The computer has No Other Way of knowing the condition of the engine. Without the sensors, it would be like a blind man trying to run a race in a country he had never been, having no idea what is around the next corner.
THAT is where the EFIE comes into play!
Stay tuned for Part Two where I will get into the sensors of the engine that control, and how the EFIE affects them, and why they are necessary for long term gains when using an HHO kit
The PWM is used to dial in a more precise amperage of an HHO kit. It allows more experimenting for the best results of each vehicle. For instance: we have had some cars get just as good mileage increase at 18 amps, as they do at 30 amps. So by settling at around 18 amps, the mileage increase was there, Plus, the kit used half of the water as normal, from the reservoir, extending times between refills. This doesn’t always happen...sometimes a car responds better at 25 or 28 amps. The only way to really dial it in, is to test around a little. The PWM allows this tuning capability.
When you initially set up an HHO kit, you dial in the approximate amperage draw of the kit, simply by varying the amount of electrolyte you put into the reservoir. Smaller generators actually need More electrolyte than the larger ones (our 881 hho kits use Twice the Electrolyte as our 884 hho kits!). Our manual shows approximate quantities for set up. If you put too little, or too much electrolyte, the amperage level is set, and you can only vary it by either diluting with more water (lowering amperage), or adding more electrolyte (increasing the amperage)). By using a PWM, on the other hand, you can add more than normal electrolyte at setup, and use the PWM to control whether you want zero amps (off), up to 35-38 amps (max recommended with our PWM's).
PWM's work by simply pulsing/modulating the battery current. They control the current by quick pulses (frequency) and adjusting how long those pulses stay on (duty cycle). Some argue that a PWM can create a better form of HHO gas, but I have not seen any proof that way. We have had many customers over the years, get great results with, and without a PWM. We prefer them on any commercial vehicle or cars that drive a lot in hot weather, as you can manually turn them down in the afternoon, if they are running a bit hot. They are also mandatory if you live in freezing weather climates, since you can add much stronger solutions of electrolyte to keep the water from freezing.
While adding or reducing the amount of HHO gas going into an engine may seem counter-intuitive, with this new technology, it is not. There are no precise formulas telling you exactly how much gas is better for any particular vehicle - only approximate rules, and opinions. That’s why a PWM is nice to dial it in to what is right for your vehicle. There are also more expensive PWM's with constant current control, and ability to add water level sensors/as well as connection options to the throttle body of your vehicle, that could control your hho kit precisely with the accelerator, and we will be introducing one soon; but they are not cheap, not really for a backyard experimenter or someone on a tight budget.
While a PWM is not necessary for an hho kit to operate and get results, we have grown to like them more and more as we dial in and play with the generators to get optimum results.
When we first began 7 years ago, there were no standards for measuring HHO gas production from a generator (still are no standards today). There were various methods tried from plastic bottles in a bucket of water, to gas/air flow meters, to highly expensive hydrogen meters that no one could afford. One mfg used such a complicated method of measurement, that no one would ever be able to compare test results (he claimed his was absolutely the most efficient units on the market). Ridiculous.
The upside down plastic bottle in a tank of water was and is most commonly used, but is not accurate and can have so many variables as to make it unreliable. One bottle may be ultra thin and light, another may be a heavier mil thickness, skewing the results. Since the measurement is based on timing, the start and stop times can be off by a few seconds either way, also skewing the results.
But the biggest problem in measuring the accurate production of HHO gas from a generator, is quite frankly, fraud and lying, not the measurement technique.We used these types of gas/airflow meters instead of the bottles, as we felt they were more accurate. The argument in using these is that the heat and steam produced by an hho generator can also skew the results.
I cannot emphasize enough how MOST companies selling hho kits online, FAKE their results. That's why we quit even publishing them - whats the point if everyone is just lying about it? How do they Fake the numbers? Easy. They know you are not paying attention, so here is what most do:They Crank Up amperage/voltage Way higher than normal for short videos.They Don't show amp gauge/voltage meter at same time as gas production.They zoom in close to bubbles and turn up current out of sight of camera. They have NO PROOF and NO VIDEOS of production - so they just make up numbers.
One of the concerns many newcomers to hho technology have is what kind of a strain an on demand hydrogen kit may put on their car or trucks alternator and battery. You would be surprised it is not as much as you may think!
Most people do not know this, but a standard car alternator is a very efficient electrical generator that creates 24-48 volts AC, in three phase operation. What does all that mean to you? Well, three phase is a special type of winding that is much more efficient than a single phase - it allows a much stronger, cleaner power with less strain on your engine or alternator. Most car batteries only charge at about 13.5 - 14 volts to keep them topped off, so a typical alternator can easily handle 2 - 4 times that.
The important rating on your alternator is the current or "amperage" rating. most modern cars are rated much higher so that all the accessories can be run, like stereos, power amps, TV's, computers, Air Conditioning, etc., so they will normally be equipped with an alternator that powers up to 100-135 amps. But remember- an HHO kit like ours, only needs from 17 to 30 amps on average, so you generally have lots of extra juice to run it.
The rule of thumb ranges from 10 - 20% of your total rating for best results. So if you have a 100 amp alternator, keep the HHO generator adjusted to about 20 amps or so. Some like to upgrade to a high output alternator, which gives them 200-300 amps of power. You get even more efficiency with those because you are using a smaller portion of the power available, and putting less strain on the engine while doing it. But usually, what comes with the car is plenty sufficient, unless it is from 1960's where the alternators only put out 35 amps. Then you definitely need to upgrade!
Contrary to some peoples belief, the hho generator kits do NOT operate directly from the alternator. Rather, they are hooked up to the battery. This allows a "chemical buffer" if you will, and keeps the hho kit form putting too much direct strain on the alternator, which only has to keep the battery topped off, not directly drive the hho generator. Believe me- we have tried every configuration over the years and direct to battery is always better.
So dont fret about your electrical system when using a good quality HHO kit like we sell. In 7 years, we have never had a battery burn up, or an alternator go bad as a result of our kits, as long as they are installed and maintained as we recommend.
You can check our hho kits here to see more information on the different sizes we carry: http://www.hhokitsdirect.com/collections/hho-generators
This is another commonly asked question we get quite often when people are just finding out about hho and the on demand hydrogen world.
The short answer is - Yes!
The long answer: Because our kits create a unique form of hydrogen-oxygen gas, (which is very energetic, and very combustible when ignited inside an engine), the HHO gas will work on any working engine that burns hydrocarbon fuel already. So it will work in all engines currently using gasoline (petrol), diesel, bio-diesel, CNG (Compressed Natural Gas), and LPG (Liquid Propane Gas).
One of our customers driving an LPG conversion Lorry in the UK, got a 50% increase in mileage when he added our hho kit to his vehicle!
If you have an newer vehicle using gasoline, you need an efie/maf tuner for the electronics, which you can see here: http://www.hhokitsdirect.com/collections/all/products/efie-maf-advanced-gas-tuner-for-hho-kits
If your newer vehicle uses diesel or bio-diesel, You will need the Diesel tuner here: http://www.hhokitsdirect.com/collections/all/products/advanced-diesel-tuners-for-hho
If your car is older and still uses a carburetor, or mechanically controlled diesel pump, then the hho kits work fine without tuner chips at all.
If you still need help- feel free to email us through the contact form on our site, or with Live Chat during normal business hours (MON-FRI; 9 am - 5 pm)